How do I Build a Wildlife Pond?

How do I build a wildlife pond?

We are often asked similar questions relating to building wildlife ponds, so to assist, and encourage people, we have listed below the most common questions, and also challenges one might face when building a wildlife pond. Putting in some homework will certainly play dividends.

What size should my wildlife pond be?

Bigger than you first think, this is because when the aquatic plants grow, the water surface area will soon lessen due to floating plants, meandering stems, and marginal plant expansion, plus the more water, the more inhabitants to support the pond’s diverse ecosystem. It is important to remember even the smallest of ponds provide valuable habitat for wildlife, and many potential inhabitants will soon make their way to even the smallest water feature, such as a sunken barrel or trough. So realistically a wildlife pond has no definitive size, it should be appropriate to the space available, your requirements and of course safety needs to be kept in mind.

What depth should I dig a wildlife pond?

The wildlife pond should have varying depths and be profiled appropriately, this means to have shallow areas around the pond’s perimeter ranging from 100mm to 300mm in depth, graded normally around 10° to 20° to create ease of access for wildlife. There should be a deeper central area, ideally 0.6 to 0.8m for deep water plants, such as Aponogeton distachyos, and of course water lilies. Remember, most species of water lily will outgrow ponds with shallow depths, and the leaves will no longer float on the water’s surface, thus becoming a nuisance. This deeper section also provides vital winter habitat for amphibians should they choose not to leave the pond in the winter months – did you know frogs can breathe through their skin! Remember sunlight will contribute to unwanted algae growth due to the UV intensity, so deeper water, over 0.5m, will help to prevent this natural occurrence.

Where should I build my wildlife pond?

The location of your pond will be site specific, meaning each site has its own benefits and challenges. One important item to remember though, is that if you are fortunate enough to have lots of available land and a water course, to build the pond in-line of the watercourse is illegal without consent. If you have space and are lucky enough to have options, select an area that has a good sunny aspect for at least half the day, this will provide plenty of sun, but not too much, for water lilies to flower, and for single-celled algae to form commencing the chain of reaction in the pond food web encouraging wildlife. Positioning a pond under trees is not really ideal as they will fill with debris from fallen leaves and twigs, not get enough sun, and can sometimes negatively affect the trees.

Is there a better time of year to build a wildlife pond?

You can build a pond any time of year. One thing to consider though, is that site conditions in the wetter months can make it difficult to dig and slippery to move around safely. Also, aquatic plants in the colder months may not be readily available, so you would need to wait until plants are ready in the spring.

Do I need planning consent to build a wildlife pond?

In brief, not normally, however, strictly speaking if the pond is being dug using a digger, this can be classed as engineering so planning approval might be required from your local council, thus clarification should be sought. The size, location, lining method, position, and construction method for larger ponds, will all have a bearing on whether a planning application or other consent is necessary.

One should remember ponds are in rapid decline here in the UK, and there is a national campaign to increase the number of ponds supported and encouraged by Natural England. Wildlife ponds support national targets, maximising biodiversity and enhancing connection between local habitats, only benefitting wildlife, people, and the environment.

How do I fill my pond?

Ideally not with mains water, although often to fill the pond for the first time, will require this method. This is due to the nutrient content normally present in mains water, which will contribute to unfavourable algae to take over. Best is to use rainwater from roof-space, or water containers, or a bore hole if you have one, and the water is tested to ensure it is safe and appropriate to use. Groundwater would be the next choice before using mains water, not grey water unless it’s been treated and tested first.

Can I put fish in my wildlife pond?

Short answer, no. Fish will eat tadpoles, amphibian eggs and invertebrates, are effectively apex predators, at the top of the pond’s food web, unless you have a grass snake or heron, then the fishes place is quickly removed. Fish will also contribute to unwanted nutrient levels, creating favourable conditions for not so favourable algae.

How can I create haven for wildlife?

Most importantly, it will come, do not be tempted to move eggs, animals, or plants between ponds, you will risk spreading invasive non-native species, and potential viruses or bacteria. The abundance of species your wildlife pond will attract such as frogs, toads, newts, dragonflies, and damselflies, will inevitably require favourable habitat to encourage them to stay for longer. Having areas for refuge, such as rocks, long grass, overhanging shrubs, suitable aquatic vegetation, or timber will create excellent habitat and a safe haven for an array of species. You can easily create a hibernaculum with a pile of old logs covered in some soil or turf close to the wildlife pond edge, this creates shelter for a variety of wildlife from frogs and newts to lizards, slowworms, grass snakes, and hedgehogs.

What about choice of aquatic plants?

Some shade on the south side of the pond will help to prevent unwanted green water, as will surface cover created from water lilies and oxygenating weed. Low bushes, long grass and small overhanging shrubs create safe wildlife access for amphibians, reptiles, and birds. When going to the garden centre be Plantwise, do not buy invasive non-native species, ask if the plants are British grown, and do not be tempted to buy all the plants that look good at the time of buying them, as you will end up with no enjoyment for the rest of the season. Please do not share plants between ponds.

Many ecologists suggest not planting aquatic plants at all due to their belief in natural colonisation, I would however suggest planting with at least a few choice plants, particularly if you want wildlife to visit and stay, also to help combat against unwanted species of plants taking over, for example, the Iris pseudacarous is native, and in small wildlife ponds they will become a menace, as will Menyanthes trifoliata and certain species of carex.

Having a selection of mostly native aquatic plants is always a good way forward, however, does restrict colour and variety. It is easier to keep to all natives on larger ponds due to the species growth rates, so on smaller wildlife ponds we tend to recommend a ratio of 80:20 in favour of natives. Oxygenating weed, such as our native Ceratophyllum demersum, is a good choice for submerged weed. Some examples of good native, normally readily available pond side marginal plant species for wildlife ponds less than 20m² would be:

Alisma plantago aquaticum, Butomus umbellatus, Caltha palustris, Cardamine pratensis, Eriophorum angustifolium, Geum rivale, Hypericum elodes or tetrapterum, Lychnis flos-cuculi, Lysimachia nummularia, Lysimachia thyrsiflora, Lythrum salicaria, Mentha aquatica, Mysotosis scorpiodes, Persicaria amphibia or bistorta, Physostegia virginiana, Potentilla palustris, Ranunculus flammula, Sagittaria sagittifolia, Scrophularia auriculata, Stachys palustris, and Veronica beccabunga.

How can I stop my pond from going green?

This is a fairly natural occurrence, particularly in new ponds, and is caused from a combination of factors creating this cellular algae growth. Primarily the nutrients, especially from mains water, from fish if you have them, and if you have not yet introduced aquatic plants which finalise the ponds nitrogen cycle by removing excess nitrates, provides opportunity of the algae to take hold. Introduce sunlight (UV), and increase the water temperature along with no shade from plants or aquatic vegetation welcomes the green pond. Although not harmful to wildlife, it does not look nice.

Please don’t be tempted to empty the pond and fill with fresh mains water as this will only exacerbate the problem. We cannot fight nature, and unless you invest in UV filtration, patience and correct planning will help to avoid this issue. So, ensure your pond is designed appropriately, planted correctly, and let nature take its course, as it will correct itself with the right balance of flora and fauna.

 

The subject of ponds is exhaustive, so these answers aim to capture the most common items. If you have any questions, or even better would like Lost Habitat to design and build a wildlife for you in Devon, please do get in touch with us.